OCT. 30: LUODONG
Tea and temples
  Our last full day in I-Lan County includes the San Qing Taoist temple and tea at the elegant Yuan Ming Yuan tea house with a sweeping view of the city and water beyond -- and at night, one last family dinner with lots of little glasses of beer.
HIGHLIGHTS
    * One last breakfast at the Park Bench.
  * Mango and taro ice milk with peanut and cilantro outside the temple.
  * Deep-fried bu rou (pork and vegetables) from one of Robbie's favorite shops as part of his culinary tour of the region.
  * Getting lost in the rental van on the way to the tea house: Didn't we take that road before?
  * J.D., J.T., Andy and Tim joining us for tea.
  * A sumptuous dinner spread: sashimi, black chicken soup, red bean pancakes, scallops, soup with vinegar, spareribs and several big fish, among the many courses.
  * Jennifer buys lottery tickets for everyone at the table -- we scratch until we lose.
  * Learning about the Taiwanese custom of gam bei: If you say that when you're toasting someone, you have to down the entire glass. Olga becomes the gam bei champion thanks to Samantha's mother.
  * Coffee, tea and sour plums back at Samantha's house.
  * Olga's nighttime scooter ride with Robbie: Who says you can't love alternative forms of transportation?
Above, Donald learns how to flip the tea cup over for a perfect brew. Right, Jennifer blows a temple kiss. Below right, Bob finally finds an American-made car (a Ford) on the streets of Taiwan.
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