OCT. 29: TAROKO NATIONAL PARK

Monkeying around

Thanks to the generosity of Mr. Wang, Samantha's first sister's boyfriend (did you get that?), we get the use of a China Oil company van and driver to explore the beauties of Taroko National Park. ("Did you look at? the gorge?" Robbie keeps asking.) The busy itinerary includes a hike to a waterfall, a stop at an aboriginal museum and a sumptuous hotel-dinner spread with all-you-can-eat sashimi.

Wang Wang the monkey likes women but not men, so Vicki gets close. Above, glutinous rice balls.

HIGHLIGHTS

* A breakfast of pork burgers and bacon-and-cheese omelettes -- topped off by perhaps one too many delicious glutinous rice balls, a sweet confection in flavors of red bean, coconut and peanut.   * Wang Wang the monkey, the star attraction at the aboriginal museum we visit. At 6 years old, he's still her baby, the proprietor explains. The problem: He doesn't like men.   * Bob getting too close to Wang Wang and getting clawed not once but twice. Ancient Chinese proverb says: Man Who Is Attacked by Monkey Once, Shame on Monkey. Man Who is Attacked by Monkey Twice, Shame on Man.   * The mile and a half hike to the waterfall at Bai Yang through an amazing number of tunnels cut through the sheer rock: Mile for mile perhaps the world's most expensive hiking trail. Warning signs: Please no cartwheels off the cliff.   * Our driver, Mr. Tang, whose aboriginal connections take us to a fascinating arts center where we learn about Taiwan's aboriginal culture. A photo exhibit shows some of the surviving members of the tribe who still bear the distinctive ceremonial facial tattoos. The visit is topped off by tea served in the replica of an aboriginal hut.   * Dinner at the Parkside Hotel, where Donald and Olga gorge on the salmon sashimi -- and Vicki takes one of the "big" plates for use at the dessert bar.

Scenes from the Taroko Gorge: a lush waterfall, a suspension bridge, a Taiwan church. Below, tea at the Taiwanese Aborigines Tattoo Culture Association.

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