HELSINKI

HIGHLIGHTS * sauna and sausage * Outi Heiskanen's "Tibet" room * Ulri's amazing apartment * the best salmon soup in the world * Margo and Sasha wow Helsinki University students * Kiasma Contemporary Art Gallery * backstage tour of National Opera * strange Finnish chairs * salmon-flavored ice cream * cocktails between acts with the opera director at Rossini's stunning "Il Viaggio a Reims" * Allan setting a world speed record for eating reindeer * Cable Factory Cultural Center * Andras finding the open lecture hall at the University of Technology * the really mean architecture tour guide * the "focus" speech * the Helsingin Sanomat lobby * Douglas's grand fish photography excursion at a local bar

From top: Helsinki's Lutheran cathedral; Michael tells us about Alvar Aalto's lecture hall design; Anya with Douglas' fish mask; ballet at the opera; Douglas on fish mask patrol.

Above, Josh explores his genetic roots backstage at the opera. Right, Anya toasts Outi Heiskanen (and gets a sneak preview of what she'll look like 30 years from now). Below, a sample of the famous Marimekko pattern on a tour through the factory, and Sasha scoops up souvenirs.

Below, Elizabeth and Margo dine by candlelight; Douglas and Donald endure another Power Point presentation; the culture department at the Helsingin Sanomat, Finland's most prominent daily newspaper; Allan tackles a plate of reindeer; Ulri in a pensive moment.

St. Petersburg page Donald's home page